Loris Diran, whose couture pieces infuse “elegance with an edge” and have been seen on million-dollar bodies such as Béyonce, Sarah Jessica Parker and Kim Kardashian (in addition to providing menswear for The Devil Wears Prada), took to spinning military on its head for his New York Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2016 menswear runway show. Entitled “Blurred Vision,” the French-Armenian designer utilized fabrics unusual to the military textile roster and instead aimed for a more toned-down interpretation of the trend by incorporating RTW staples like tweed, knit and even jacquard.
As the collection’s name suggests, “washed out,” less rigid optical prints such as graphic checks rendered in double knit were rendered in a more tailored respect, coming to life in calvary jackets paired with street-style joggers. Soft gray ammo sweaters looked more sartorial than soldierly in a streamlined cut, and though paired with paratrooper pants (this season’s take on the much-maligned cargo) retained a distinctly refined edge.
Cozy seasonal staples like cashmere and tweed and street-wear regulars such as pullovers and modernistic cocoon outerwear were deftly incorporated into the decidedly utilitarian collection as well. High-neck tees were paired with cable knits and plaids in technical performance nylon, black jacquard stood out against olive scarf-sweater hybrids, tuxedo pants were paired with broken prints, and—of course—neoprene coats and zippered vests kept things from straying off course. Loris Diran FW 2016 did not employ a locked-and-loaded kind of hard-edged military tailoring, but took that arena’s slimmer silhouettes to give a more alpha-male direction to sportswear. The designer also opted for a somber, vintage-tinted version of athletic to serve as the collection’s backbone; save for the occasional palette cleanser of holiday reds and rich oxblood, it was a study in smart restraint and a clever, real-life merging of today’s most directional trends. Click gallery below to see the full F/W 2016 collection.